Krishna x Ganesha +Hanuman(SHIVA)108 = Sweet Baby Jesus

St. Philomena Cathedral

  It's been about two weeks since I have arrived in India and I have seen a lot.  There's a temple on every corner and a festival every other day.  I love it.  There's Ganesha which here they call Ganpati who we all know of as the remover of obstacles.  There is Krishna who is like their Jesus.  He's the blue guy with the flute, the cows, and the virgins that will steal ghee out of your window when your not looking.  There's Hanuman the monkey who is a true symbol of devotion.  There's the leader of the pack Shiva which you can thank for Virabhadra who is famous for  inspiring the warrior series.  Finally, I found a little Jesus in the mix.  Now... I'm not labeling myself anything but I do dig some Jesus from time to time.  He was the ultimate yogi... Selfless, loving and he didn't judge.   Today...I needed a little Jesus of the Christ persuasion so I went on my journey through magical Mysore for St. Philomena Cathedral and low and behold I was saved!... Just kidding...There's really nothing to be saved from around here but you get what I'm saying.  I found my destination.

Inside view

  I took the 119 bus into Mysore city station and hailed a rickshaw to St Philomena Cathedral.  It should cost around 35 rupees from Central Bus Station.  If you're on meter and the tab keeps ticking past 35 rupee the driver is taking you the long route.  I arrived at the gate of St. Philomena and it's surrounded with little stands of hustlers selling candles, incense, rosary's, and religious items so bypass this and go to the gift shop to the right when you walk in the front gate. The money from the gift shop goes to support the orphanage and their school.  It's a huge cathedral that towers so far up it's hard to get a picture with the entire church.  I walked up to the front side door and saw a bunch of shoes.  In India it is tradition to take off your shoes when entering a holy place or temple.  Here it's optional.  I say leave them on.  There is a huge sign that says there is theft in the area.  One thing you don't want is to walk around India shoeless.  I walked in the huge front door and I was in a different world.

Life size crucifix

  It is magnificent inside.  There were a few people sitting in the pews and a few people walking around the perimeter.  I walked around to each of the stations of the cross for a few moments and took in the view.  I noticed under the alter there was a stair case leading down.  I walked over and then walked down the staircase.  At the bottom of the stair case were numerous names etched on the walls and another alter of the saint Philomena directly under the alter above.  There was a hall to the left and one to the right.  I looked to the left and there was some activity going on behind a barred door.  The kind of activity I see... not what most people see but I bet if you were open enough you could feel the spirits touch you as you walked around.  It felt ok but not the usual kind of feeling I get when I see or feel spirit so I tried to focus on the alter.  In the alter below is the relic statue of Saint Philomena with an anchor on each side of her surrounded by more etched slates of passed priests and parishioners.

Relic of Saint Philomena

   Saint Philomena is believed to be from Italy and was so devoted to God that she refused to marry the emperor of Rome and was tortured by binding her feet to anchors and dropping her in water.  The archangels came to her rescue by cutting her lose from the anchors.   The emperor later had her shot with arrows but they wouldn't hit her body and some of the arrows even circled back and killed a few of the archers.  After many attempts to torture her with no success the emperor beheaded her.  She was 13.

Dark and long creepy hallway

  To the right of the alter is a dark hallway with more etched slates and the way out.  It was very uncomfortable there and if you don't like the dark or you're sensitive to seeing things that go bump in the night....skip that part.  The top part of the cathedral is awesome alone.

  I came up for air and there it was the same hot sun above me as before.  I walked around to the front and looked over to the side of the cathedral and saw the school and the gift shop.  I did some rounds of the shop and the school and decided to go back in and sit for a while. I went back into the church and sat for about 30 minutes.  On the way in I dipped my finger in some holy water and did a half-ass genuflect (sign of the cross and a little head bump to the Big Papa).  It was nice and I felt refreshed emotionally.

  I grabbed a rickshaw back to Mysore city market and stopped into Bombay Sweets for a piece of mysore pak and walked over to grab the 119 bus back to Gokulam.  Now I'm back in my room resting for tomorrow.  It was just the get away I needed.  A little Jesus can go a long way.  I'm thinking I'll probably be good till at least Christmas.  In the land of blue babies and dancing elephants and monkey servants it's good to find a little place for the Big Papa J...(not me..Jesus).

Side view of St. Philomena

St.Mary's Children's School

Kumar and The Gobi Stand

The good guys at the gobi stand

Sunday was my day off from practice so Saturday night I went to eat at a little street vendor up the street by Guru's coconut stand that makes vada, gobi, baji, noodle stir fry, and little snacks.  Most of the  yogi's won't eat the street food so I just say that leaves more for me.  Dinner was really good and I met a few friends there Warren and Chris and we all ate and had a great dinner.  I will warn you that if you are not used to Indian level of spice in food here you may want to start off with a little at first. It's not necessarily the spice as it goes into your mouth as much as it is at 2am the next morning.  Spicy is really spicy here but it's some of the best food you'll ever eat.

Baji, vada, plantains

Gobi Manchuria

  Sunday morning I met Tracy and Raymond for lunch at Gokul Chat for idly and upma and had some great chai too.  We were visiting and playing with the local dogs coming up the the table just living it up when I felt a hand on my shoulder.  I looked up and it was Kumar.  Kumar was my rickshaw driver 3 years ago when I was here.  I got up and we hugged.  He sat down with us and we caught up on our lives and what had been going on over the last 3 years.  Kumar informed me that he bought his very own rickshaw and no longer had to rent one so he could do his job.  He would have it payed off in just five months.  This is a pretty big deal.  Most rickshaw drivers rent their rickshaws and have to pay a heavy fee at the end of each month no matter the flow of business.  If a rickshaw driver only makes enough to pay his rental payment it leaves him no money for his family of living expenses.  It's a tough life so for Kumar to finally be purchasing his own puts him and his family in a great position.

Kumar and the new rickshaw

  Kumar got up and signaled for me to follow him over to his new wheels.  I jumped up and followed him over to the edge of the street where his new rickshaw was parked.  He just beamed from ear to ear as he showed me every inch of his new ride.  It is beautiful.  What he is most proud of is he has put his two boys names on the rickshaw.  One of his sons names is on the front and the other of his sons names is on the back.  I made him pose and took his picture in front of the rickshaw.  He puffed out his chest and stepped his feet apart a few spaces and smiled.  Kumar is a proud father and independent business owner.  He looked at me and said.."Jon-a-ton..You have my #...You call..30 minute before..I come and give you ride..."  I said... "New rickshaw has new meter...yes.." Kumar looked at me and smiled and said... "I use no meter...You pay what you want"...  I laughed and said..." ok...to market only 20 rupees..." He laughed and didn't say anything.  A ride to market is 35 to 50 rupees.  I take the bus for 19 rupees.  He knows I take the bus so it's like a running joke.

  Kumar and I walked back over to join Tracy and Raymond and talked for awhile and then Kumar got up and went off to his lunch and back to work. The rest of the day was pretty relaxing and restful.  I walked home and rested for practice on Monday morning.

Son's name in blue on glass

  Practice is going well and I am seeming to make a little progress every day.  When my soreness goes away more finds me the very next day.  I have no complaints.  One thing that my yoga practice has taught me is that anything is possible.  If you had told me when I was in my early twenties I would be traveling to study yoga in India when I was in my thirties I'd probably looked at you and laughed.  It's amazing where life will take you and who it will introduce you to on the way.  The world really is small and we really are all more alike than we are different.  Ask the Universe to teach you something and then sit back and get ready.  You might get your mind blown.

The handsome Kumar

2nd son's name in red on back

Indian Thali

Today after practice I met up with a group of friends at Dasaprakash Hotel in Mysore City for a traditional Indian Thali.  We had planned this for a few days so I was really excited about throwing down on some great Indian food.  I jumped on the 119 bus to Mysore City from Gokulam for my cost of 19 rupees to avoid the rickshaw price gouging of 60 rupees. I not only enjoyed the nice A/C but I got to listen to the local radio station as I enjoyed my view into town.  It's only a 5 minute walk to the Dasaprakash Hotel once you get off the buss at the central bus station.  Easy breezy 19 rupee easy.  Sounds good if you say it fast.

Dasaprakash Hotel

  I found it with no problem.  I remembered it like it was riding a bike.  I would eat here once a week on my last trip to Mysore because for a little over an American $1 you eat like a king.  When you walk into the Dasaprakash Hotel it's kind of like walking into a little community among itself.  They have a Concrete wall around the building that actually becomes the side of the building.  You walk through the gates and you are in a tiny little city.  It's very old and traditional.  There's a doctor on staff and even an ice cream parlor.  I met my friends Tracy, Raymond, Chris, and Warren and we all ate like there was no tomorrow.  I think Tracy might have even eaten her sweet first.  There is nothing worth more then spending the afternoon with your family away from home.  Good people and good food.  That's love. 

Special Thali

Let me explain the Indian Thali.  Most of the time you can choose whether you would like the large or small.  At the Dasaprakash they call the large the "Special Thali".  A Thali is a large round  plate served with several little dishes inside filled with different foods.  It's kind of like a portable tapas buffet on a plate.  In southern India you will get these little dishes filled with curries, dal(lentils), vegetables, curds, raita, sambar, rasam,rice, roti, and usually something sweet.  In some places they will serve the Thali on a banana leaf with a mound of rice in the middle and just come by and spoon ladles of different foods around the rice.  It's tasty and fun either way.

  One thing you can't argue with is that the Indian Thali is the way to go.  It's not only tasty but it's a beautiful way to experience a bunch of flavors at once without having to order a bunch of food you might end up wasting.  After lunch they bring a little leaf stuffed with sweet spices like fennel, cloves, cinnamon and topped with shredded coconut.  It's to help aid in digestion and clean your palate.  Food is always better to enjoy with family and friends so I am very blessed to have both.  Good night and sweet dreams from the magical city of Mysore, Karnataka.

Normal Day In Gokulam

  Today was day 3 of practice.  I woke up very sore and tired from the last few days.  I have been walking a lot too and realized how much I take movable transportation for granted.  I can remember not even a few weeks ago complaining about having a manual transmission in my car.  Don't get me wrong..I'll complain again a few months after getting home but as of right now I'm grateful. I woke up and had my coffee and then I was on my way to yoga.  When I arrived all I could think about was how am I going to do this today.  Once I got into the practice room not another thought like that entered my mind.  The place is magical.

  The first few days I've had a hard time catching my breath during my practice.  I can't explain why but it just seems hard to catch my breath.  Today it was a little easier.  I went through my practice and Jaiprakash came over and assisted me in so many of my postures.  I don't want to get ahead of myself but I think there is some progress happening.  I am a firm believer that yoga is the Guru but Jaiprakash is such a great teacher.  He knows exactly how to help me modify certain poses and is very kind but firm in his assists.  I'm very grateful and blessed.  I keep thinking to myself how did I get so lucky to go down the path I'm going.

Cow on the way home from practice

  Practice ended and I walked home.  I showered and did my laundry bucket style and headed out for water and bananas.  In the heat I've been drinking 3 liters a day plus coffee and tea.  Walking to the market I realized I'm walking a lot.  I now realize looking around that with all the scooters and bikes and rickshaws and buses there are so many people who walk.  It makes me think of home when I drive to the grocery store and it's only half mile away and all I get are a few items.  It's made me realize how much gas I waste on little trips here and there.  You look around here and people are in pretty good shape because they walk everywhere they go.  It's awesome exercise and environmental at the same time.

Neighbors a few houses up

  On my daily walks to market or to get little things here and there I get to notice the cows and the local houses and the trees and the beautiful people.  I often wonder if I was driving would I take notice of these things.  If you look deep into the heart of India you will see one of the most beautiful places you can ever imagine.  India truly is a place where magic happens.

Local Gokulam cows eating lunch

More neighbors

First Class

  Today I had my first class at the Mystic School with Jaiprakash.  The first difference I noticed before we even started our practice was the opening mantra is different.  It has about five lines added to the beginning of what I already know.  Jaiprakash lead us in a call and response and everyone but me chanted strong.  I pounded it out once we got to the part that was familiar.  Then we all started our Mysore style practice.

  Mysore style practice is when the yoga practitioner goes at their own pace.  Ashtanga yoga has 6 series but most people are in series one or two.  Series one is known as primary series.  It can take a yoga practitioner as long as 20 years or more to become proficient in primary series.  Each posture is earned by the practitioner and when you're able to perform the posture safely you are given the next posture in the series.  You may start at the same time as the person beside you or behind you but you will most definitely finish at different times.  It is your practice.  There's absolutely no judgement or competition.  It's a beautiful and humbling process.



   Today being the first day of practice I had no idea what I was in for.  I was very nervous and started beating myself up immediately in my head as I began my practice.  Jaiprakash walked over in my very first down dog and adjusted my hands and then my feet.  It was a good moment. I was a little shocked at being assisted so early because of my prior experience with this practice is that usually you don't get assisted until after your sun salutations.  It was nice.  By the end of my ten sun salutations I lost count of the assists I had received.  It was just the beginning and I had already had one of the deepest practices ever.  I moved through my practice slowly because of a damaged hamstring and one position to the next Jaiprakash kept coming over and assisting me deeper into each  pose.  He was moving around to everyone in the room.  There was no special treatment he is just so aware of his students.  I felt like I was in the right place.


  When I got to the floor I really started feeling my hamstring on my left side.  If you have ever had a hamstring injury you know what I'm talking about.  Jaiprakesh walked over to me in Paschimattanasana A and put his hands on my back and my pain went away. Low and behold my pain was gone.  I can't explain it but when I looked up the walls were beaming with a glow and my pain was not in my hamstring.  I proceeded to finish at my stopping point and my practice was over.  I laid down in savasana and it was the end of an awesome practice.  As I was walking out Jaiprakash walked over and smiled and handed me a copy of the mantra and said..."you take this and learn"... I thanked him and walked home.

Local Lady

Rooster who wakes me up

  On the way back to my place I felt so awesome.  I noticed the color in everything down to the lady with the basket on her head to the rooster who wakes me up every morning.  I just felt like life is good and I'm on the right path.  I went home and showered and walked to Coffee Day (Indian Starbucks) for my coffee and then I went to 6th Main Restaurant for my simple lunch of rasam, sambar, and steamed rice.  Life is good and I'm very lucky to be where I am.  I didn't get here by myself and I'm so grateful for all the people who were part of the path to get me here.  You all are my teacher and I am forever your student.

The Sixth Main Restaurant

"Gurubyo Namaha"
(I pay respect to the teacher)

Simple rice with sambar and rasam

The Mystic School Spiritual Center

  A few weeks before I came to Mysore, India I was in my room back home doing my meditation the way I always do...First 10 minutes I'm shopping, beating myself up, dreaming about Cadbury eggs, scrambled eggs, over easy eggs, Cadbury eggs.....Cadbury eggs...You see how it goes... I find a little silence for a few minutes and then I start seeing bright blue lights and getting little messages from Spirit.  You can imagine to my surprise when I saw myself practicing yoga with someone other then Saraswathi or Sharath.  It freaked me out so much I just pushed it away and didn't tell even the dog what I had been given from the guides. It's not surprising considering FEAR really stands for "Fuck Everything And Run". I compartmentalized it and pushed it way out of my head until just a few days ago.

  The day I arrived in Gokulam, Mysore all I did was walk past the Jois Shala and something just didn't feel right to me.  It wasn't bad or terrible but I just wasn't feeling like I was going to be practicing there.  On my walk through Gokulam I kept seeing a sign that said Mystic School. The sign said nothing else other than Mystic School. It's not a huge sign and it's not even right out in front of you as you're walking by.  It's just a little yellow and blue sign that says Mystic School on the side of the street.  Several times a day I would walk Gokulam and see this sign and feel good.  I would walk past the Jois Shala and still feel that same previous feeling of practicing somewhere else.   I researched and did some looking around and to my surprise it's a spiritual center and school of Ashtanga Yoga, Hatha Yoga, Meditation, Pranayama, and Energy Work.  I went to my room where I'm staying and sat with my guides (Spirit) and meditated on this to see what came through.  After about an hour I contacted the Mystic School Spiritual Center for an appointment to talk about my yoga and spiritual practice.

The Mystic School Sign

  This morning I woke up and felt good about my decision to talk to the Mystic School Spiritual Center.  I met with Jaiprakash who greeted me with a kind smile and a seat.  We talked for a little bit and I signed up for a full month of practice.  Jaiprakash was a student the honorable BNS Iyengar who directly studied Ashtanga Yoga under Krishnamacharya and Yogasanavisharada.  After our talk I felt even better about my decision.  I can continue to practice under Jaiprakash after my month is up or I can go and practice at the Jois Shala. I am definite that there is a bigger Universal reason for my path and it's direction.  I am a student always and I have an undying love for all of my teachers. This will just be another learning lesson in my human experience.  I do believe it's the Yoga that's the true teacher.  Our connection with God through that process is what makes our vibration elevate to a greater understanding.  I'm so grateful for all my teachers and even more grateful to be their student in this lifetime and hopefully many more.
  

The Ugly Side of Beauty

  Today was Sunday so I decided to make a trip into Mysore City Market on the 119 bus which takes you directly from Gokulam to the heart of Mysore.  I walked down to the bus stand by Guru's coconut stand and waited for only around 15 minutes for the bus.  I lucked up and got the decked out A/C bus which is nice considering Mysore is in the climax of their hot season.  Three years ago a ticket one way was 16 rupees and now it's 19 rupees.  Have exact change or get the evil eye and a few curt words with no head bobble from the bus attendant.  The bus ride was awesome because you get to see a lot of what's going on in the streets of Mysore on the way into market.

Kumkum powder is used in Hindi ritual.  

  When you arrive you are in the heart of Mysore City.  The market is right in the center of town and it's got almost everything you could need.  Nothing is a set price.  If you are a Westerner you will have to really bargain to get prices down.  Don't pay full price for anything.  A pineapple started out at 30 rupees and I got him down to 15 rupees.  I later found out if you threaten to kidnap their first born son you can get one for 10 rupees.  The colors in the market are awesome.  The fruit and the flowers and the kumkum powders blow the place up with color.  

Flowers Lady

Homeless boy with infected leg

  In all this beauty you will see a G rated dark side of India.  I say G rated because this is not even the plastic on the surface of what goes on here.  There are homeless and sick and crippled everywhere.  All the diseases we hear about back home in text books and National Geographic are a reality here.  As I was crossing the street through the pedestrian tunnel I saw several people suffering from diseases and infections that could probably be cured with simple and affordable antibiotics.  Here it's a choice between food and medicine.  This is where it's hard not to just hand out money to everyone you see suffering.  If you did this you would be bombarded with people from every direction and set the future people traveling to Mysore up for a potential disaster.  With a pain in my chest and a sympathy pain in my leg I moved on.  

My Grandpa...just kidding...

  The whole scenario reminds me of an art class when an artist will paint or draw a thin line of white next to a dark line to make it pop.  It's like yin and yang, dark and light, night and day, up and down.  The universe has to have both to equal out and find balance.  We still see beauty but it's led or followed by some kind of dark.  It's just the way the world works and sometimes it sucks. It teaches me to try to appreciate everything.  We can all be just a few moments away from having absolutely nothing so be grateful for all those happy moments.  It's work but it's worth a try.

Banana Lady 

Mr Gowda and Lakshmi

  I'm staying at the really awesome place in Gokulam, Mysore owned by a really nice family called Krishnaprem Home Stay.  The Grandfather in the family who is well over 80 is named Mr. Gowda. He is a thin light complected man with grey and wise eyes with round framed glasses.  He is a follower of Krishnaprem a British westerner who became a teacher of Spirituality in the early 1900's and lived out the later years of his life in India passing in 1965. The home stay is named for his teacher Krishnaprem.  Everyday when I'm coming and leaving he is sitting on the porch steps in the shade or on a chair inside the door of the home talking to the neighbors and tenants. He always looks up at me and says.."You..Jon-a-ton...come..sit.."  He tells me of his family and how when he was a kid he used to play football (soccer).  He says he has no time for Cricket.  It's too violent.  He says he didn't do yoga but he was very active.  Mr. Gowda says.." I knew your teacher..Jois man..Before he could touch his toes..now he put foot in mouth...hehehe" He goes on and on about the teachings of his teacher Krishnaprem and the importance of nonviolence and a strict vegetarian non-harmful diet.  In meditation Mr. Gowda keeps coming up as a teacher so I try to talk to him as often as possible trying to hear what he has to say and his ideas about his spiritual beliefs.
 
  This afternoon I walked up and Mr Gowda was sitting down on the front steps when I arrived.  Mr Gowda and I must be "plugged in"... He looked up at me and said..."I knew you were coming"...I looked down and said..."Really, how is that..."..He looked up at me and said... "You are like me...You just know things that you can't always talk about..." I looked at him and he was glowing gold.  I can't explain it and a lot of you guys will think I'm full of shit but dude was glowing like the sun.  I sat and he told me more about Krishnaprem and we would look over at each other and we just knew what the other was thinking.  He asked me how my sleep was last night and if I had been visited by anyone? I just laughed and he laughed too.  Last night the spirit of an older Indian man visited me around 3:30am.  The spirit was a jolly older Indian man so it felt good.  Then Mr. Gowda says.."old man like me....hehehe..kind man...no worries...I looked at him and said.."yes...kind man no worries"... We chatted a little more about various subjects and then I went up to take a shower and rest from the hot part of the day.

Mr. Huche Gowda

Before my interaction with Mr. Gowda I walked through Gokulam and took in the sights.  I really love the cows.  You have to be careful.  You don't just walk up to the cows and start slapping on the rump.  They might knock you across the street.  There are some though that have such a kind feeling about them I have reached over and scratched their head or rubbed the side of their neck.  There is one in particular that's been showing up in the area 3rd stage that follows me for a few yards every time I see her.  Today I reached out and scratched her head.  She loved it.  She just nodded her head and reached up and slobbered all over me like she was giving me a kiss.  I decided to call her Lakshmi.  She followed me for a few more yards and then she decided the tree branches above us were way more interesting and started chewing on them.  I put some ginger cookies in my backpack for her next time I see her when I got back.  She makes me happy and is so beautiful so if you are in Gokulam and you see Lakshmi...give her some love.

Lakshmi...Such a good girl

Arrival

  At 1:20 am May 16th I landed in Bangalore, India.  Customs was pretty fast and easy so I had no issues.  I went right to the taxi stand outside of the baggage claim and set up my ride to Mysore. Talked him down from 5500R to 4200R.  I could probably gotten the ride for under 4000R but you have to give up sooner or later.  I can't complain because that's only $76 for 4 hours to Mysore.  By 2:20 am I was in a compact little Indian made taxi with my driver Guru (his name,LOL) breathing in those familiar smells of burned garbage and dusty streets.  Guru was blasting some Punjabi R&B and honking at all the dogs, cows and pigs that got in our way.  I fell asleep for about twenty minutes off and on waking up to Guru clapping his hands and dancing in the front seat when he thought I was out. Man's got some moves.  I forgot how beautiful the country side of India is once you get out of Bangalore.  It's pretty awesome.

Toilet with spray gun.

Single bedroom. Very tidy.

I arrived in Mysore around 6am and you could see all the chai shops opening up on the side of the street getting ready for the rush.  Chai is going for about 10R for a big some places up to 15R.  It's really sweet.  They scald the milk at over 200F and mix in cane sugar, ghee(clarified butter), strong tea and strain.  Very tasty.  I got to my Hotel Krishnaprem Home Stay in Mysore around 6:15am.  It's 800R a night for a single room with private bathroom, wifi, and fan.  The family that runs the place is so kind and willing to do anything you need to make you comfortable.  

Big Chai

I napped for 3 hours and walked 2K to Gokul Chat for by usual Indian breakfast of upma and idly with sambar and coconut chutney and a big chai.  I will say prices have gone up a little.  My 30R price has almost doubled to 59R but I did order a large everything.  It's still only a little more than a $1 for a big breakfast.  I was very happy. 

Idly and upma w/ sambar & coconut chutney